In Japan, there are several regions where whale is treated as a special meat, and Southern Hokkaido is one of them. For people living near Hakodate, whale soup is a dish that cannot be missed during New Year's. Whale soup is a soup made with salted whale, which is whale fat with the skin still attached, plenty of root vegetables, and wild vegetables salted in the spring. Even today, many households have whale soup on the table during the first three days of the New Year.

Hakodate Sakuraya, which opened in November 2023, is a restaurant that serves whale soup all year round. In a warm and nostalgic atmosphere, we spoke to the owner, Izumi Akatsuka, about the appeal of whale soup.

Enchanted by whale soup

Akatsuka is originally from Karuizawa, but moved to Hakodate through various connections. He says he was shocked by the whale soup he received from his company at the time. "I had never tasted anything like this soup, which combines the flavor of whale stock and the umami of vegetables. There have been many dishes using whale lean meat, but this was the first time I've seen whale fat eaten in this way," says Akatsuka.

Whales come to Hakodate in pursuit of herring to feed on, so in the fishing town of Hakodate, they were once treated as a symbol of good fortune, foretelling a big catch. Whale soup, made with whale meat and mountain vegetables that are rare in Hokkaido in winter, is a real treat. Wanting more people to know about this auspicious and delicious whale soup, Akatsuka decided to sell it in Motomachi, where tourists gather.

Clear whale broth made with careful preparation

Whale soup comes in three flavors: salt, soy sauce, and miso. In addition to salted whale, other ingredients include butterbur, bracken, bamboo shoots, daikon radish, and carrots. Salted whale is only added in amounts that make the soup just right, but it's surprising how different the flavor is from kelp and bonito. Whale has a unique flavor, and is different from pork and chicken. By parboiling the whale and removing the salt and scum, the unpleasant flavors and excess oil are removed, resulting in a beautiful, clear soup.

For those trying whale soup for the first time, we recommend the salt flavor. "Salty whale soup has the least amount of seasoning, so you can enjoy the whale soup more. It's surprising how simple the vegetables are, but adding whale soup stock makes it so complex and full of flavor," says Akatsuka. The salt flavor also makes the soup clear, so the colors of the ingredients stand out, making it visually appealing as well.

Also pay attention to the flavors of Hokkaido that come in a set

The red rice recommended to accompany the whale soup set menu is made by adding food coloring and sweetened azuki beans to glutinous rice and cooking it. It is slightly sweet and has a slightly dessert-like feel. It is a unique cooking method eaten throughout Hokkaido, and many people may have seen it on TV. "The part of the rice that touches the sweetened azuki beans is especially sweet, and I like the balance with the saltiness of the whale soup," says Akatsuka with a mischievous smile. By alternating between whale soup and red rice, you can enjoy the festive taste of Hakodate without getting bored.

Enjoy local cuisine that will warm you up on your trip

Nowadays, the restaurant is frequented by locals as well. "At first, we only had salt flavored whale soup, but after hearing locals say, 'We only had soy sauce flavor,' or 'Do you have miso flavor?', we ended up offering all three flavors," Akatsuka told us.

What's interesting about whale soup is that the ingredients, seasoning, and the way it's served vary slightly from home to home. Learning about the food culture and traditions unique to each region is sure to be a fun part of your trip.

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