In the Motomachi area, lined with churches, there is a single-story Japanese house that stands out. This is Sabo Kikuizumi, with its large, aged black pine tree and an entrance hall made from stone from the Hakodate City Tramway.

Kikusen, a liquor store that once supported Hakodate's commerce

Hiyori-zaka, located in Motomachi, is one of the 18 slopes at the foot of Mt. Hakodate. It is characterized by the fact that the slope ends halfway and is built in two stages. Many former merchant houses and their mansions line this slope, which stretches from the old pier at Hakodate Port towards the mountain.

Hakodate was once the location of a magistrate's office during the Edo period, and as it was home to many important facilities, it developed as a political and commercial center. In particular, after the port was opened with the Treaty of Peace and Amity between the United States and Japan, important facilities such as embassies and churches were established there, and an eclectic Japanese-Western streetscape was born, mixing not only traditional Japanese house construction but also Western culture. Hakodate City protects these buildings built between the Meiji and early Showa periods as traditional structures.

In 1990, "Sabo Kikuzen" was designated as a traditional building as it is the only Japanese-style single-story building with a gabled roof in the area (Source: Hakodate City website, Tourism and History, Historical and Cultural Properties, List of Traditional Buildings).

The gabled building has its entrance on the wall at the end of the roof (the gable), and is characterized by a triangular top. Under the eaves is a sign symbolizing Kikuizumi, and many people who see it will realize that it is a liquor store.

Kikuizumi is a liquor store founded in 1885 (Meiji 15), and was also listed in the Hakodate Rankings. The building used as a teahouse was built in 1910 (Taisho 10) as a villa for the store owner and his family. The family business closed in 1994 (Heisei 6), but the house continued to be used as a residence. It began to be used as a cafe after it was designated as a Hakodate City traditional building.

A new concept for a "new yet nostalgic Kikuizumi" experience that can be enjoyed with all five senses

When I opened the antique sliding door, I was greeted by Yoshiyama Yuki, the current owner of Sabo Kikuzen.

Yoshiyama-san started visiting Hakodate through family connections and was completely captivated by the city. He was running a cafe in Motomachi, but when he heard that Sabo Kikuzen was closing, he thought, "We must protect this building, which symbolizes Hakodate and Motomachi." "I want more people to know about the building." With that thought in mind, he decided to take over and applied to be the manager.

The concept of Yoshiyama's new shop is "New yet nostalgic Kikuizumi." He wants people to "experience the splendor of good old Japan with all five senses," and the menu includes Japanese sweets and retro items, while the interior is decorated with traditional Japanese items. The shelves on which the tables and decorations are placed were also used when the building was a residential area.

Enjoy a special and memorable experience with a hands-on menu that you can customize to your liking

Now that Yoshiyama has taken over, all of the food served at the restaurant has been revamped. Based on the concepts of "time at Kikusen that everyone should cherish" and "an experience at Kikusen that you'll want to tell others about," the restaurant offers a Japanese menu that has been carefully designed to be memorable for customers.

In particular, the "Grill your own dango set" has been a constant favorite since the shop opened. The dango skewers are grilled over an open flame on a charcoal grill until fragrant, and served with two sauces (homemade mitarashi and brown syrup made from Hokkaido kinako and Okinawa brown sugar), red bean paste made from Hokkaido red beans, and a monaka sandwich with cherry blossom leaves kneaded into it.

Dango is a Japanese sweet that is familiar to us even today, but few people have ever baked it by hand. When you place a dango on the grill, you hear a crackling sound and a fragrant aroma fills the air. If you roll it frequently until it is cooked, it will be crisp on the outside and hot and fluffy and chewy on the inside.

Everyone enjoys dango in their own way. You can season it to your liking. Sakura Monaka is delicious whether you fill it with red bean paste or dango, or just eat it as is.

The aroma and feel of the baked goods, the excitement of the seasoning, the unique texture that can only be enjoyed when the goods are freshly baked, and the atmosphere of Kikuzumi's good old house as you eat them... when all of these come together, a sense of nostalgia and a scene from an era you should not have known are recreated before your eyes. You will surely realize that this is the "experience" of Sabo Kikuzumi, the concept of the shop.

Yoshiyama's warm feelings towards Kikusen's history

Yoshiyama says that when he took over the restaurant, the style would be completely different from the previous ones, so he wanted Mr. Hanai, the owner of the building, to understand the concept and menu. For that reason, he carefully shared information with Mr. Hanai, including presentations, video conferences and consultations via messaging apps.

"I love every bit of Sabo Kikusen. That's why I want people who visit the shop to know about the history of the Kikusen building. In order to do that, I need to know about Kikusen as a liquor store and this building, and I want to be able to talk about it correctly. I want to run the shop with a sense of mission, not just serve food." Yoshiyama smiles as he says this, and his eyes reveal his warm consideration for Kikusen's history.

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茶房 菊泉
電話：0138-22-0306
住所：北海道函館市元町14-5
アクセス：函館市電「末広町」徒歩7分 
HP：https://sabokikuizumi.com
SNS：https//www.instagram.com/sabou.kikuizumi
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