"Suhama" is a Japanese confectionery made by grinding roasted soybeans into powder and kneading it with sugar and starch syrup. Its history dates back to the Kamakura period, but at the time it was not in the shape it is today and was affectionately called "mameame" (bean candy).

Fast forward to the Edo period, and the current shape was devised by Onsuhama Tsukasa Uemura Yoshitsugu, which was founded in 1657 (Meireki 3). The name "Suhama" is said to come from its shape, which mirrors the gentle curves of the waves lapping against the sandy beach.

Uemura Yoshitsugu was a beloved figure in Kyoto for around 360 years, but sadly came to an end in 2016.

Later, the beloved taste and spirit was revived at "Suhama-ya," located near the Kyoto Imperial Palace. Here, you can savor the "Suhama" beloved by many and feel the heartwarming story that connects its history.

A trajectory of inheritance that began with a girl's memories

Ryoko Yoshino, the owner of Suhama-ya, was born into a family of tea ceremony practitioners, and says that her family has had a close relationship with Yoshitsugu Uemura since her great-grandfather's generation.

Every year at the start of the new year, a tea ceremony called Hatsugama is held, and the "Suhama" served there was something special to Yoshino. "I used to secretly eat the 'edges' that were left over when it was cut into pieces," he says with a laugh, recalling memories from his days as an elementary school student.

When the previous owner, Mr. Uemura, fell ill and Yoshino's father felt sad that "Suhama" had disappeared from the annual first tea ceremony of the year, he said to Yoshino's father, "Why don't you try making it yourself, at least for the first tea ceremony of the year?" That was the beginning of it all.

Driven by the pure desire to "eat that taste again," Yoshino and his son decided to learn how to make "Suhama."

However, precisely because the ingredients are simple, there is no room for manipulation, which is the depth of "Suhama." Yoshino repeatedly hits a wall when adjusting the roasting temperature of the soy flour, which is the key to the flavor, and the moisture content of the dough, which changes with the seasons.

At such times, the presence of his predecessor, who lived nearby, was a great support. Yoshino says that it was only thanks to the presence of his mentor, who would take a bite of the "Suhama" he made and give him kind yet precise advice, that he was able to continue this process of trial and error.

The difficulties and the depth of the process are all "fun." Before he knew it, Yoshino had become completely fascinated with making "Suhama," and he expressed his desire to "learn more." In response to his enthusiasm, his predecessor kindly entrusted him with the location of the shop. And so, in 2018, the curtain of "Suhama-ya" was quietly raised.

Traditional flavors and new harmony that appeal to all five senses

In the cafe space, you can enjoy the "Suhama Set," which combines the shop's signature "Suhama" with a drink of your choice from carefully selected coffee, tea, or matcha.

When the "Suhama" pieces are lined up on a plate, the contrast between the two colors stands out beautifully. This color scheme was devised by the previous owner, Mr. Uemura, who was inspired by "Oribe ware," a type of pottery that uses a green glaze.

When you put it in your mouth, you will first feel the crunchy texture of the sugar, and then the dough will slowly melt smoothly with the temperature of your tongue. The sweet and fragrant flavor of lightly roasted soybeans will reach your nose.

A cup of coffee complements this delicate flavor. When Yoshino was learning how to make "Suhama," Uemura would always have a hot cup of coffee waiting for him when he delivered the prototype.

Yoshino learned from his master that "Suhama" goes well with coffee. The shop uses beans from "Circus Coffee" in Kitayama, Kyoto, which he discovered as a result of his love of coffee. The refreshing bitterness of the beans subtly brings out the gentle sweetness of "Suhama."

Memories of Kyoto in beautiful sweets

The artistic dried confectionery called "oshimono" created by the previous generation has also been passed down to Yoshino.

This confectionery is made from Suhama dough, which is made by pressing sugar and kanbaiko (powdered glutinous rice) into a solid mass and embedding colorful designs. The designs change with each month, such as morning glories in July and autumn leaves in November, allowing you to feel the changing of the seasons.

The "Oshimono" (pressed items) were revived in response to requests from fans from the "Yoshitsugu Uemura" era, and have now become a popular product that represents the store. These small works of art, each carefully handcrafted by Yoshino, are sure to make a wonderful gift.

Another popular souvenir is the cute "Kasuga no Mame" (Kasuga beans), which are shaped like broad beans and have a light texture different from "Suhama." This is a product that allows you to easily share the deliciousness of Kyoto sweets that you have encountered during your travels.

Staring at the teacher's back,

An unforgettable Kyoto sweet that a young girl once loved. That pure feeling has become the thread that connects our 360-year history.

If you take a bite of "Suhama" here, you will be able to enjoy its gentle sweetness and gently touch the baton of warmth that has been passed down through the generations.

It's been eight years since the restaurant opened. "I'm still learning," says Yoshino with a gentle smile. He gazes upon the large back of his master, who has dedicated many years to "Suhama," and each day he sincerely confronts the flavors. In his earnest gaze, the spirit that has been preserved by this long-established restaurant is certainly alive and well.

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すはま屋
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