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2024.04.15

Watanabe Dyeing Shop, which continues to preserve Gujo Honzome

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Watanabe Dyeing Shop, which continues to preserve Gujo Honzome

Watanabe Dyeing Shop in Gujo Hachiman continues to produce indigo dye using traditional methods.
For over 400 years since the Edo period, we have been preserving Gujo Honzome using the traditional indigo dyeing method, Shoaisome.

Gujo Hachiman is a town rich in nature, with the volcanic Yoshida River flowing through the center of the city.
The waterways were built following a major fire in 1652, and have since been rebuilt, with the water reaching every corner of the town now being used not only for fire prevention but also for daily life, and a life that makes the most of water has taken root in the lives of the people of Gujo Hachiman.

We visited Watanabe Dyeing Shop, which continues to preserve the traditional craft of Gujo Honzome in this water town.

Indigo dyeing, a staple of Japan, is on the decline

Indigo dyed stole

Indigo dyed stole

Indigo dyeing was first described as "Japan Blue" by a British teacher who visited Japan at the beginning of the Meiji era, and has come to be recognized and highly acclaimed overseas as a traditional culture representative of Japan.

In Japan, indigo dyeing is made from domestically grown indigo and has become a part of the Japanese climate and people. Natural indigo has an insect repellent effect and is said to ward off vipers when working in the fields. In modern times, indigo is used to make flame-resistant clothing to protect the fishermen who are constantly exposed to sparks in the traditional Gifu art of cormorant fishing, which is performed around bonfires after sunset. Clothing dyed with indigo has been popular in the past and present.

To support this lifestyle, people and shops whose occupation was dyeing fabric blue with indigo existed in various regions throughout the country and were called "koya" (dye shops). As time passed, chemical dyes became more common and the number of indigo shops became few and far between. Here in Gujo Hachiman, there used to be 17 indigo shops, but now there is only one, Watanabe Dye Shop.

Watanabe Dyeing Shop does not use any chemicals and continues to adhere to the traditional method of "true indigo dyeing."

"Gujo Honzome" preserved by Watanabe Dyeing Shop, a shop filled with history and passion

An indigo vat that was buried during the Edo period and is designated as a cultural asset.

An indigo vat that was buried during the Edo period and is designated as a cultural asset.

Shokichi, the 14th generation head of the family who inherited and protected the traditional indigo dyeing method, calls Gujo's traditional indigo dyeing Gujo Honzome, and in 1977 (Showa 52), it was designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Gifu Prefecture. Inside the store, the jars used for Gujo Honzome are embedded in the dirt floor, and well-used tools are lined up around them. Gujo Honzome is characterized by its deep indigo color, which is achieved by dipping the fabric in the dye solution over and over again.

"I always thought it was natural that I would take over."

"I've been helping out at home since I was in elementary school. I started by boiling glutinous rice to make glutinous paste, which is used to draw the lines on the parts that won't be dyed. It is this glutinous paste that is washed off when left out in the cold. I also helped dye the warrior banners that are displayed for the Boys' Festival, starting with red, which is a relatively easy colour to paint as there is no shading, and then moving on to yellow, black, green, and other colours with shading, as well as larger areas, and gradually took on more difficult challenges," he said, his eyes shining as he talked about how he has honed his skills.

I want to continue the tradition of Gujo Honzome.

Many people from overseas also visit Watanabe Dye Shop. "We welcome indigo dyeing experiences from both Japanese and foreigners. I would be happy if the culture of hand-dyed carp streamers and indigo dyeing spread to people overseas. I have had people from overseas ask for something large to use as a table runner. The lives of people overseas are different from those in Japan. Talking to people from overseas is a new stimulus. I want to incorporate the lifestyles and customs of various people into my designs and production, and I enjoy creating. It's fun to face the finished dyed works, and it's always exciting."

As previously mentioned, the deep indigo color of indigo dyeing is attractive, as expressed by someone from overseas, Japan Blue. Some people may think that dyed items will fade or transfer color. However, there is an added charm to this, as Watanabe explains, "Gujo Honzome has a gentle color created by the natural indigo, and the more you use it, the more the rings of the tree will appear, and it is a deep color that shows its trajectory."

Left: Well-worn color, Right: Freshly dyed color

Left: Well-worn color, Right: Freshly dyed color

Because it is made from natural ingredients, the indigo and the small amounts of branches and tree tannins mixed in there create complex hues that settle and change color. Various elements are visible in the indigo color, and you can feel the depth of indigo. The color changes with rubbing and washing, and the history of the person who uses it is reflected there. Watanabe carefully preserves this profound Gujo Honzome dyeing, which conveys the love of the maker and user.

Therein lies the reason for preserving and passing on Gujo Honzome.

Traditional cultures synergizing in Gifu

Recently, Gujo Honzome has been collaborating with Gifu's traditional culture. Mino washi paper threads are woven with cotton to make fabric, and Hon Mino washi paper for Gifu Japanese umbrellas is also dyed. Firewood for the kiln used to make mochi paste is also sourced from within the Gujo region.

We support traditional culture in Gifu and pass the baton to future generations. We make efforts to maintain traditional methods as much as possible so as not to change things that should be left to future generations.

Watanabe Dye Shop blends in with the town

Watanabe Dye Shop blends in with the town

Watanabe Dyeing Shop stubbornly adheres to the traditional hand-dyeing methods of indigo dyers.
The profound Gujo Honzome dyeing invites the viewer into the profound world of indigo.


Watanabe Dye Shop

電話:0575-65-3959

Address: 737 Shimatani, Yahata-cho, Gujo City, Gifu Prefecture

Access: 20 minutes walk from JR Gujo Hachiman Station, 1 minute walk from Gujo Hachiman Community Bus Kawaramachi

Website: http://www.gujozome.jp/

SNS: https://www.instagram.com/gujozome/

*For details on business hours and holidays, please check the link above.