Naebo Town is located east of Sapporo City, the northern gateway. This area has deep ties to the history of pioneering, and since the Meiji period, industrialization has been promoted and it has developed into an "industrial town."

Due to the abundant underground water of the Toyohira River and the low humidity, ideal climate for brewing, the area was home to many factories, including beer breweries and wine breweries. Many buildings, such as museums and historical archives, remain to this day, evoking memories of the past.

Fukuyama Jozo, a soy sauce and miso brewery with over 130 years of history in Naebo Town, is known to Hokkaido residents for its familiar "Tomoe brand." The red brick soy sauce brewery, which has been certified as a Hokkaido Heritage Site, continues to carry on the techniques and flavors it has cultivated over the years.

We spoke with Noriyuki Kobayashi, who has been with Fukuyama Brewery for nearly half a century and is now in charge of brewery tours, about how the story began here, their commitment to brewing, and how they see the future.

From a shipping wholesaler in Fukui to a soy sauce manufacturer in the north

The Fukuyama family, who originally ran a shipping wholesaler based in Fukui Prefecture, came across the fertile land of Hokkaido during a life-risking journey around the seas of Japan. "Hokkaido, and Sapporo, will develop in the future," they thought. Encouraged by the potential of the land and the fact that it was a rich soybean producing region, they decided to move there with their entire family.

At that time, Hokkaido's history was still short, and soy sauce production, which supported daily life, was handled by the national government, but production was gradually being handed over to local companies. In 1891 (Meiji 24), after a frantic search for information in a new land and a combination of various conditions and coincidences, the story of soy sauce production as "Yamato Fukuyama Shoten" began.

A red brick soy sauce brewery dating back to 1918

They also began producing miso, and in 1918 (Taisho 7), as production increased, they established a new factory in Naebo, where the current soy sauce brewery is located (miso production was later transferred to Asahikawa City). With access to high-quality water, this place, which flourished as a logistics town, became their base.

"In the past, this was called 'genkan brewing' and brewing took place once a year during the coldest season. The air is very clean when there is snow on the ground, so brewing would take place in that condition. Fermentation requires a certain level of temperature, and the cold climate of this town was perfect for brewing."

In the northern regions where winters are long and harsh, the sturdiness and insulation of buildings are essential to maintain the quality of flavor. The red brick storehouse, built out of necessity, is passed down as a symbol of pioneering efforts.

Soy sauce made with care and "by hand"

In this atmospheric storehouse where many people have worked hard, soy sauce is still made using methods that are almost the same as in the past.

The koji, which is said to determine the flavor of soy sauce, is carefully made and fermented for over six months to create the "moromi" (unrefined soy sauce mash), which is then pressed out at a pressing factory.

The moromi wrapped in filter cloth is stacked like a mille-feuille, with an astounding 130 layers. The soy sauce that seeps out due to its natural weight is called kiage (soy sauce left as it is after the moromi is squeezed out), and is slowly squeezed out.

"This traditional method is what we're most particular about. To be honest it's not the most efficient because it takes so much time, but by squeezing it carefully we get rid of most of the unpleasant flavors," Kobayashi told us while showing us around the factory.

The "funakake process," in which the cloths covered with "moromi" are piled up, is an important process that requires the skills of a craftsman. While sometimes using the power of machines, they do not rely too much on it, and the inclusion of "human hands" leads to the deliciousness of soy sauce.

Enjoy discovering new seasonings at the direct sales store

Fukuyama Brewery, which is committed to traditional manufacturing methods, opened a direct sales store on the same premises in 2014. The store sells not only soy sauce and miso, but also limited edition products, processed foods, and baked goods that cannot be found anywhere else.

The reason behind the opening was to "create interest in soy sauce and miso, which are traditional Japanese seasonings," and "to convey the wide range of uses for them."

"Sometimes people think that soy sauce and miso are all the same, and that makes me sad. They each have their own unique characteristics, and each has their own appropriate way of using them. That's what I want to convey the most."

The old-fashioned "sell by weight" method

Some of the products are delivered directly from the factory and sold by weight, such as soy sauce, raw miso, and dried koji. You can encounter rare seasonings that you don't usually get to see, such as soy sauce that has been aged in two stages, miso that you can just dip vegetables in, and miso that is suitable for stir-frying, so the time you spend thinking about your dinner table is sure to be more enjoyable than usual.

The shop staff will be happy to advise you on what dishes the produce goes well with, and you can even sample it before you buy it. You can enjoy shopping while chatting with the staff, something only a direct sales store can offer.

"It was really delicious." "My kids loved it, and now we only use this soy sauce."

They say that the positive feedback they receive as a result of increased direct interaction with customers is also encouraging.

Contributing to food culture with pride and a history of pioneering

In 2020, we launched a new brand called "Yamato Fukuyama Shoten," and, cherishing the "strong spirit of taking on new challenges" that we had at the time of our founding, we are producing a series of products that utilize koji to improve the body.

"Historically, the founding of our company coincides with the history of Hokkaido's development, and we take pride in having been able to help shape part of Hokkaido's food culture."

Kobayashi spoke for as long as time allowed, saying, "We would like to convey the greatness of our products, including miso, soy sauce, and our new brand, and also play our role as Fukuyama Brewery in promoting food culture and everyone's health."

Behind the story spun by this long-established store that has supported daily life with "tastes on the dining table" lies the commitment that has been built up through the tireless efforts of its predecessors, and the unwavering determination to pass on their sense of mission to the future.

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Fukuyama Brewery (direct sales store)
Telephone number: 0120-120-280
Address: 2-4-1 Naebo-cho, Higashi-ku, Sapporo, Hokkaido
Access: About 15 minutes on foot from JR Naebo Station
HP: https://www.tomoechan.jp/
Social Media: https://www.instagram.com/fukuyama_jyozo/
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*For details on business hours and holidays, please check the link above.