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2024.03.15
NEIGHBORS
Kikusui, Shiroishi Ward, is conveniently located just one subway stop away from Odori Station in central Sapporo. The area runs alongside the Toyohira River, which is said to have played an important role in the development of the city, and has long been home to tofu stores and soy sauce breweries.
In 1948, Shigeo Noguchi, who came from Kyoto's Noguchi Dyeing Factory, founded Noguchi Senpo. The fact that there was good quality water, essential for washing kimonos, also encouraged him to start his story here.
Noguchi Someho has been a driving force in the dyeing culture of Hokkaido as a consultation desk for kimono repairs and a go-between for other businesses. What is the background behind the company's continued challenges while inheriting Japan's dyeing culture and the spirit of cherishing things?
We visited and spoke with Shigetaro Noguchi, a dye craftsman who is the fifth generation owner and currently serves as a director.
The frustration he felt across the ocean was his driving force
Noguchi was born and raised in an area far from the store, and as a result had few opportunities to come into contact with the family business from an early age, spending all his time playing soccer. Although he had always thought, "Because I'm the eldest son, I'll get involved someday...", he was unable to face the business head on and just watched from afar.
The turning point came when he met a customer at a restaurant where he had chosen to work part-time after graduating from soccer. He was encouraged to go overseas because it was interesting, and so he went overseas. However, he felt frustrated and ashamed that he couldn't say anything about his family's business of making kimonos. This experience motivated Noguchi.
"The reason I've been able to continue my activities with such passion is because of the frustration I felt at the time. No matter what I do, I can't forget the feelings I had at that time," says Noguchi.
Making kimono culture more accessible
This experience made Noguchi think, "Maybe there's something I can do that only I can do" in the family business of traditional Japanese clothing. After an interview, he joined the company in 2006 (Heisei 18), and learned all the work from scratch, while at the same time adding new elements that had never been done before.
Aiming to "narrow the gap between Japanese people and kimonos," he produced a new style of kimono made from denim fabric called "Kimono Denim" and the casual kimono brand "Shi bun no San." His desire to "bring kimono culture closer to people" has not changed since the beginning.
In pursuit of dyeing unique to this region
As the company approaches its 70th anniversary, it is exploring new ways of dyeing beyond kimonos. In this era of unpredictable, rapid change, what can "Noguchi Someho" do because it is located here?" While thinking about this and working desperately, it learns from a conversation with a barista it meets that a large amount of coffee grounds are being discarded.
"Sapporo has long been a city with a strong coffee culture, and a lot of coffee is consumed here. That's why when I heard about the project, I thought 'this is it!' and wondered if we could create something that would put things to use again. At first, I spent all my time at the library studying," says Noguchi with a smile.
In addition, the company produces dyes using a variety of plants, such as grape pomace produced during winemaking and aronia, and by recycling these resources, it continues to uphold the "spirit of cherishing things and continuing to use them for a long time."
"Natural dyeing experience" that brings out vibrant colors
Noguchi Someho, which pursues dyeing techniques that make the most of the local characteristics, holds a reservation-only "dyeing experience" in the form of a workshop in order to convey the culture. People from all backgrounds, regardless of age or nationality, come to this experience, which is imbued with the desire to "discover the value and depth of craftsmanship, especially in this age where things are so easily obtainable."
From handkerchiefs and wrapping cloths to scarves and market bags, items made using "natural dyeing" methods that do not use any chemical dyes have a texture that reflects nature as it is, and can be used anywhere and in any situation.
The expressive potential of "dyeing" is limitless
It helps the fabric to fixate the color by soaking it in the mordant solution.
In addition, by changing the type of metal used as a mordant, a variety of colors can be achieved.
Unlike chemical dyes, all the raw materials used in natural dyeing are from nature. Not only does the dyeing process take time, but it also requires careful storage, such as drying and storing in a cool place to prevent spoilage.
Despite these difficulties, one of the charms of natural dyeing is that it can express a wide range of colors delicately. After deciding what color you want for a piece of fabric and what the dyeing pattern will be, you can adjust the amount of water absorbed in the fabric, and change the folding and squeezing methods, as well as the mordant used to fix the color, to create a rich finish.
A unique warmth felt through dyeing
"When people are experiencing dyeing, they have such bright smiles on their faces. I think it's similar to home cooking, but the value of being able to actually use something that you've made yourself in your daily life is irreplaceable," says Noguchi.
Not only will you be able to experience the dyeing process through this experience, but the warmth you feel by making something with your own hands will surely make your travel memories even more memorable.
We will continue to "help you create joy and excitement in life."
The new dyeing style of Noguchi Dyeing, which started with "dyeing what is thrown away", has evolved even further. In search of a dyeing style that is more Hokkaido-like, they focused on birch trees that have been thinned to promote forest growth. They named their natural dyeing brand "BetulaN" and are breathing new life into the underutilized materials hidden in this land.
"Our goal is to help people find joy and excitement in life," says Noguchi, expressing what he hopes to continue to value in the future.
Even as times change, we want to do what only we can do to make those involved happy. With our history in mind, Noguchi Someho continues to take on the challenge of our 80th anniversary. Just as many people once crossed the sea to develop this land.
野口染舗(のぐちせんぽ)
電話番号:011-811-3816
住所:札幌市白石区菊水8条2丁目2-9
アクセス:地下鉄東西線「菊水駅」より徒歩15分程度
HP:https://ngsp.co.jp/
SNS:https://www.instagram.com/noguchisenpo/
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